Wednesday, October 16, 2013
The Church, The Fortress and The Storm
The World is Yours... If you want it!
Wednesday, October 9, 2013
Flying High
I did my research on how to get there in
the hostel creating a mental map of things in my head because I was determined
not to use a map once in the streets. What can I say…? I have a real weakness
for wandering around. All I had to do was to find Placa de John Kennedy from
where I would take the little blue tram. A straight route would have taken me
perhaps 40 minutes but the way I was walking my trajectory was more like flight
of a fly - full of loops and turns seemingly for no reason.Saturday, October 5, 2013
Following Shadows and Lifting Spirits
Shaking frame of my bed woke me up around 7:30. One of the girls climbed up on the top bunk bed and, I realised, turned on the air conditioning. It was only when I felt the cold air made it's way to my lungs that I realised how hot it was in the room. The sheet and blanket were crinkled at my feet. Well, body knows what it needs even when mind is asleep. I must confess it was nice to lay on a bed uncovered without shivering after few a moments and cuddling under a blanket. It reminded me of hot summers in Slovakia when I used to wake up in the attic room, just under the roof window. That room did not let us sleep too long during summer, if you stayed there too long past sunrise it would boil you alive... It seems like it was a life time ago.
I got up and searched my bags in the dark. Some of the people in the room were still asleep. At the moment we are 4 girls and a boy. Two girls are from Sweden and one from China. She is traveling alone like me though she keeps to herself. Not that I was being particularly social. I was still enjoying the fact of being alone... having time to look around, contemplate... Still sleepy I marched through the reception to the bathroom. I really wanted to wear a dress... I don't have that many opportunities of wearing them without freezing my but off... But the forecast said it was going to be a showery day. I hoped it would be wrong, but then I remembered I am no longer in Scotland so the weather forecast actually can be right (and it was).
I stole myself a vintage table in the corner of the hostel terrace to have my breakfast. There is not much of a view from there as it's surrounded by walls of close-by buildings but it was nice to sit outside. The air smelled like holidays.
I decided to plan my day at least a little bit. I was meeting a friend of mine later on so I decided to stick to the city centre... which turned out to be not so small of an area to cover at all... Sometimes, I forget how small Edinburgh actually is...
The main reason why I decided to come to Barcelona is... drumroll.... a story!
Surprise, surprise!
To my defence it's not just any story, it's one of my favourites... though it's not just the story.. it's a lot of little details working in unison... the writing style, choice of words, settings, pacing of the story and, most of all, amazing characters. Plus, it has a Cemetery of Forgotten Books in it... A labyrinth of all books that were worth saving or protecting... What a wonderful idea!
Of course, I'm talking about The Shadow of the Wind from Carlos Ruiz Zafon. The story takes place in Barcelona... and now that I walk around the city, the story is perfect for it. They belong together.
I decided to start with a little tour of the places and streets from the book... first on order was the Gaudi's Casa Batllo. I love Gaudi's work, whether in painting, sculpture or architecture. That man was a genius. The colours, the shapes, the light (I love how he uses the light)... it's surreal, a dream... no sharp edges and colours, colours colours!!! I am not sure if we were allowed but I put my hands on everything in that house. It begs you to touch it... it's designed to be touched. I came there early in the morning so I had the opportunity to enjoy it in peace, without hundreds of tourists tugging m and pushing me around. If you have a thing for surrealism and like to see it materialised, you should definitely go and see it. although the entry fee is a bit of a downer (20.30 Euros)... Again intelligent me, I left my student card in Edinburgh. Why would I take it with me? Nooooo need, right? You see, I did not forget it, that would not be so bad, I actually, intentionally took it out of my purse along with other thingies supposedly useless outside UK.
I also visited the streets of supposed locations of the home of the Sempere's bookshop homes of other characters and - my favourite - the hiding place of the Cemetery of forgotten books. Truth be told that street looked really dodgy and abandoned, but I guess that's appropriate... Imagine if there really was such thing as this cemetery! Secret refugee camp for rejected, band or abandoned books hiding under the city. I sincerely hope there is such a place... not necessarily in Barcelona but somewhere in the world.
It was not too difficult to resurcet the story in my mind and spill it into the streets for which it was created...even with the considerable number of tourists wandering about. Some areas are overwhelmingly crowded and this is not even the peak season. I wonder how it looks during the summer... though, I am not too keen about finding out. Crowds of people make me feel tired and sad.... except if there is food involved... like at the Mercat de la Boqueria, which has become one of my favourite places in Barcelona even before I set foot in it... one look was enough.
The innumerable winding allies of this outdoor market were hugged from both sides with stands obediently kneeling under the mountains of exotic fruit, vegetables, fish, meet, spices, sweets and treats. Mingling odours were tickling my nose, bright colours enslaving my eyes... For a moment, my ears were saved from the noise of traffic by resonating voices of vendors selling their goods accompanied by clinking and clanking of cooking process and a distant echo of a street musician...
If lived here I would spent half of my time here and the other half cooking. I spent ages wandering around and treating my tastebuds to some new flavours before going back to my Shadow of the Wind exploration quest.
After about 5 hours of tireless wandering, I had a crisis of enthusiasm... now it seems natural, but at that time I was not really aware of how long I've been going around. Suddenly everything seemed really annoying - especially being alone because I had no one to complain to. When I was about to give it up, I looked up and found myself in a random old narrow street. Right opposite me, on an old crumbled wall was a simplistic painting of a tree. Next to it a short line written in big white letters read: 'Wake up! Matrix has you!'
I couldn't do anything but start laughing... an inside joke between the universe and me. A nice reminder indeed. It's sad how many people go through their lives without ever waking up... I don't wanna be one of them. I took a deep breath and went to find myself a a coffee-serving refuge. I restocked my energy supplies. You know how it is, satisfied body, satisfied soul.
When I stepped again into the streets I put the map in my backpack and left my expedition to pure chance. I mingled into deeper and deeper into the Gothic quarter and La Ribera loosing myself in narrow allies silently guarded by never-ending procession of balconies. In one of the small squares, I discovered a film crew shooting a scene for a movie from what appeared to be early 20th century period... Unfortunately I couldn't take pictures but I stayed a for a while watching them at work, absolutely fascinated by the amount of work and obsession with the littlest detail went into that scene.
I got back to the hostel completely exhausted. I took a shower and a short nap before going to dinner which was prepared every night from scratch by the hotsel staff for a few euros and so far has been always delicious. Even better than the food is the atmosphere as random travellers gather at a common table... I love listening to peoples stories, so obviously I subject everybody I meet to a thorough interview. This is by far the most pleasant hostel I've ever stayed in. The whole day ended with a lovely pub crawl and a lot of dancing till early early morning... which obviously completely incapacitated me for the next day so my the 2nd day of my quest... does not even deserve to called a quest... the best thing about it was the food and coffee... But I have learned my lesson, so the next night... no actually I learned nothing... I totally went out again. People here are so happy, and active and friendly... and the party goes on and on... Nice... I like this city more than I thought I would
A few points to point out:
- there is a disturbingly hight number of pharmacies in this city... on every corner... like Starbucks in US
- there is also a high number of candy shops... but that's not so much disturbing.. that's just plain awesome
- where ever you go, there is nowhere to hide from relentless foreign 'street vendors' trying to sell you beer, water or an umbrella... it's amusing and sometimes a little annoying but then everybody needs a job... I bet I annoy people all the time :D
- it's good that I only have a hand luggage otherwise I would spend all my rent and utilities money on clothes, chocolate and ice-cream
- the weather is making fun of me... again... the rain chased me here all the way from Scotland... at least the temperature is reasonable... the weather is supposed to go back to AMAZING on Tuesday, cause I leave on Monday evening.
Wednesday, October 2, 2013
Roaring Monsters and First Impressions
Wooohoooo! Made it all the way the hostel in one piece!
It took me a while but I managed. Actually, it wasn't even that difficult... I don't know what's happening to me but I have never been so peaceful and calm in my entire life... especially when going somewhere new. I am excited and happy but before it used to be more of a 'timed bomb' type of excitement... Now it's simply... I don't know how to describe it... maybe it doesn't need to be described, important is that it feels DAMN good.
Apparently, this sudden appearance of my inner peace made all the other tourists feel like it's not my first time here... as I was calmly giving out advice on where to buy tickets, when to get of the bus, etc... not because I actually knew all this or was at all prepared... All the information was around one way or another... I think if you decide not to be stressed everything just becomes easy. In any case, it's very pleasant and amusing when people see me as if I knew it all... especially, without finding me annoying... cause, let's face it, I can be an incredibly annoying know-it-all at times.
That is the end of the heroic part of the story. Part number two is dedicated to my legendary inexplicable carelessness... I got off the airport shuttle at La Placa de Catalunya. It took me while to figure out on which side of the square I was and which one of the many streets was 'my' street but I managed... After a 20 minute walk I finally found my hostel... or was supposed to. Instead I was standing in front of a heavy ancient wooden door capable of accommodating a person 4 times taller than me. It seemed to belong to some sort of distinguished Architectural company - or at least that seems to be an image they were going for. I truly couldn't care less... my stomach was having a symphonic orchestra concerto since I left the airport. I was in desperate need of food and shelter.
Despite all this I was not even remotely stressed, as I mentioned, I am am having an episode of inner peace... I stood there staring at the number on the door - 226. Seeing the number, I knew almost instantly what the problem was... I know my brain far too well. Though to save myself some walking - in case my brain was playing tricks on me, cause that also happens quite a lot- I called a friend in Scotland using my slovak number to check the address of the hostel online (because why on earth would I have such useless information with me, right? ... I do have moments of genius but mostly I am clueless).
IN case you care to know... which you probably don't but anyway... the correct number was of course 266. So I walked some more and, hallelujah, I arrived!
I love this hostel... even despite it's name (which is The Hipstel... the idea of it is that they are hipster hip... but yeah... anyway... since when are hipster hip? event the word 'hip' is not hip...). The building is old but renovated... it has a nice 'art nouveau' touch to it... And the staff is awesome! The minute I walked in I was flooded with more information I could possibly process... about everything: the food, drink and dance... I was invited to parties, breakfast, dinners... I was also assured there are some salsa options available in hostel pub crawl outings. I feel like I am staying at a friends house not a hostel... Well, the girls in my room seem a little quiet but then I just arrived, they deserve a chance.
I check in, put clean sheets on my bed to be and 'unpacked' - if I can call 'unzipping my suitcase and making a mess of it' unpacking) took a few Euros and headed straight out. Not to party... just to get a feel of the city and to quiet down the roaring monster in my stomach... cause apparently the dinner in the hostel was sooooo good nothing was leftover for late-comers like myself. So first, I bought myself amazing highly nutritious and healthy dinner - if you are guessing ice-cream, you are 100% right!
As I walked down the streets, summer breeze comforting my skin, -which is still slightly in heat-shock (and I came here at 8PM... it's supposed to be cooler now)- I soaked in the life around me. Because everything WAS alive... in a very relaxed manner.
I know I've been here only a few hours and saw next to nothing, but a feeling is peaking out inside me and boy I think it's love! I look around and I like what I see, what I smell... and I love the fact that I came here in early autumn. The leaves are sliding through the air like falling is nothing but a luxury leisure cruise. Autumn gives every place a character... not that Barcelona needs any extra help.
Sweet Escape
Here I am again... above the clouds. Tickling excitement making itself at home in my belly. Well, it was about time. I was turning into a traveler who doesn't travel... and a writer who doesn't write. An appalling thought. How could I let this happen?
Well, sometimes, one gets caught up in an idea and when this idea is simply wonderful it is very difficult to give it up. Plus I have a weakness for ideas and incredible stories. Once they are in my head, I really want them to come to existence... I do my best to make them happen. It's that simple. The problem was that this particular story, the idea of it grew so powerful that it crushed me.
I lost my free will to a story... how about that?
Luckily, 'the curse' was broken a few months ago. I had a lightbulb moment and magically reclaimed my soul from a devil of my own creation. I am not angry about wasting time with it... you know, this was a hell of lesson, so it might have been just a side effect of my cunning talent for educating! It was a subconsciously self-inflected deviously designed lesson which can only mean I am a genius even beyond the point of my own awareness... Although this kind of geniality is a bit dodgy. Not being aware of something is a nice way to say 'ignorant'... and ignorant is a fancy way of saying stupid... It's a vicious circle.
I am babbling on about things that don't really make sense to anyone but me... One of my bad habits... or let's jutt say - a habit- to be vague when sharing private matters, because that way I can share without actually sharing anything. I do that a lot... not only in writing, I don't think people realise how little they actually know about me... not that I do it on purpose... It's some sort of communication disease, I am unable to express myself briefly and to the point.... God, if I keep this up, my novels will make people want to shoot themselves. It makes my writing an unreadable mess. Though, when I am accused of this openly, I just blame it on my deep philosophical inclinations. Philosophers can be hard to understand and it's never their fault.
The point is, I am here, I'm happy, and I am on my way to Barcelona. But you have probably guessed that already from the title of this blog. I was meaning to give it much more meaningful or even witty title, but it's hard to name a story if you don't know about what it's going to be just yet.
It could be anything... and I love that feeling! The taste of endless possibilities in intoxicating. It's my personal drug.
Since I am spending my entire flight writing this, you have also probably guessed that I am traveling alone. It's quite amusing how shocking this was to people, when I mentioned it. Unimaginable. In fact, the first question raised (in 95% of cases) after being informed of my trip was : 'Who are you going with?'
I know it's nice to travel with somebody, and I have nothing against it. However, traveling alone has its irreplaceable charms... at least to me... it smells of adventure.
Stepping all alone into the the unfamiliar pulls you out of you comfort zone and pushes you of the cliff into the sea of 'monsters' without caring whether you know to swim or whether the fall may kill ya. Friends and family are a magical thing... with them, we transport with us a sense of security, sense of familiar. A shield against the unknown. People don't like feeling all alone in the world... no one does, not even me. But what I came to realise over the years is that, firstly, feeling of loneliness has very little to do with physical distance. Secondly, loneliness - or lack of it- is a choice.
And I made my choice.
Suddenly setting off into the sunset by myself isn't all that scary. To the contrary , it's marvellously exhilarating!
Although, this might not be a general rule, I don't know... I have a nice collection of idiosyncrasies, so maybe it's just me. You see, I love people... the awesome ones in my life and in general... We are a fascinating species. but I also like being by myself time to time. I need time to recharge batteries, collect pieces of myself that scattered all over the place like a ripped bag of marbles... Everyday life is like... not-always-professionally-mastered cocktail of actions and emotions, it's easy to loose sight of what the hell is going on. In a way, this is my leave of absence... escape from the madness.
Plus, I already told you I have a weakness for stories, especially those that involve a quest. I love creating, narrating and plotting them... making them happen. I trust my imagination, I enjoy it... but I am only one person. What is one person against the world? Universe is full of crazy wonderful possibilities and twists that have never ever crossed my mind.
It's good to be in charge of your own life, but it's also good to give the world a chance to surprise you. So, I let go of the nagging urge to be in control and just go with it... This time it took me to Barcelona.
Being on your own in a foreign country makes you PAY ATTENTION to... well, to everything! People, sounds, odours... It makes you not only look but also see. So, I don't mind if people think I am a bit strange. I am OK with it. Strangeness never killed anybody...
People around me have been chatting in Spanish all flight... I don't understand a word... well maybe a word... It's been a long time since I've been in a country of which language I did not speak. This is going to be fun... I can feel it... and hear it :D
Oh we are landing, need to turn this off... the flight attendant is giving me dirty look.