Wednesday, October 16, 2013

The Church, The Fortress and The Storm

Sunday...  what better day to decide to go to church? Not just any church but Sagrada Familia itself. I finally managed to book  the ticket online and was able to access it without waiting. I attempted to go there on Friday, but the queue of tourists was holding the church in a tangled grip like Anaconda its victims - spending 3 hours in a queue is not my idea of fun. So here I was, on the 'God's day' entering the church. I was raised catholic and I hold very dear memories that are under-towed with bits and pieces of this faith. However, over the years, my love of the world became too unconditional... while the church continues throwing conditions on people's shoulders and casting judgements on people's lives... so I am not sure what I am in terms of faith... though I don't think it really matters that much to have a label for everything.

So, Sagrada Familia... It's still not finished and it won't be for many years to come, though it's still pretty impressive. I must confess, I like it more from the inside. The building looks very imposing when you look at from he outside, however there is so much to take in because every little bit of it is trying to tell a story. Inspecting the facade is like being in a very crowded and busy street... you don't know where to look first, it's an ambush for brain and senses.  However, the inside... felt much calmer... it was like entering into an enchanted forest... I don't quite know how to describe it. It was fairly simple (especially if you compare it with the outside) but so much more powerful.


I never liked churches much... especially because they were meant to be a place you felt closer to God... made to impress you... and made COMPULSORY... which to me seemed quite strange and confusing when I was a child. I did not see a reason why God should care where you pray... but apparently according to the priest it was a big deal. You know, first they tell you God is everywhere and loves you unconditionally, then they tell you have to go to church to communicate with him otherwise he will not love you as much, since you will be a sinner... now that is REALLY confusing for a 7 year old child! They need to get their stories straight.

 Anyway, if I ever felt anything even remotely close to 'godly' or 'supernatural' or 'holly'... it was never when I was closed among thick church walls... it was always outside,  surrounded with people... laughing, dancing... on the hill tops, in the meadows, in the streets, on the bus... in the simplest of places under the most common circumstances.

Sagrada Familia was a little different... it felt supernatural and even holly. The pillars were like tree trunks supporting the swirling sky of light, shapes and colours. I believe it felt that way because the building was an act of passion, act of love.. perhaps it was for God as well, but first of all that building was built for its own sake. That's why Gaudi's work is so good... because it's full of passion, made just for the simple reason of being.

I mingled inside for couple of hours, inspecting every corner... in the end I just set down and stared at the ceiling... without really thinking anything in particular. It was just very pleasant to look at.

When I got out it was already quite late but since this was my last full day, I wasn't going to give up on anything. To save time and energy I took a taxi back to the centre to La Rambla. I walked down the street, almost down to the shore and headed for the Montjuic fortress. I heard the view from there was amazing, though again I went there to give a shape to another bit of the story - Shadow of the Wind.

Montjuic Castle, as I remembered from the book, was supposed to be a dark place with even darker history. I do believe it has a very dark history in the real world, as well. However, making my way up there through green flowery gardens peppered with fountains and sunlight, it was hard to imagine that darkness.



That day, the whole of Barcelona yielded to the sun. Montjuic offered an amazing panorama of the sea, the city and the mountains on the north. I did the only sensible thing... I bought a cup of coffee sat down and watched and listened... the view... the people... old and young, families, couples, friends, lone passersby... tourists and locals... God how  I love doing that! It's a great way to see wonderful things. I don't care what anybody says, people are kind and good (especially when they think no one is watching), I have seen it too many times to remain sceptical.




The storm was approaching from the sea. The seaside turned grim within seconds  while the city glowed in sunshine... the storm did not seem to travel in any closer but it brought gusts of cold wind and I shivered. I got pretty used to the warmth in these few days... and I knew I will have to pay for this when I will have gotten back to Edinburgh. Montjuic was showing its dark side at last... I love storms... they sweep away dust and bring in fresh air (this time meant literally as well as metaphorically). In any case, I decided to return to the hostel... I started to be cold and a long and busy Spanish night out awaited me! 





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